Oser Communications Group

The Cheese Guide 21 So they moved to Colorado, to a fast-growing city where the Front Range of the Rocky Mountains rises out of the plains in a dramatic backdrop to destiny, and Steve went to work at Whole Foods and then a few other local cheese shops. Kim kept the day job she's had for nearly 20 years running the communications department for a DC-based trade association, commuting back and forth between DC and Denver, and together they waited until they thought that Denver's interest in artisanal cheeses was strong enough to support another cheese shop. "Denver's food culture has exploded, with new chefs coming into the city and the population growing at the rate of 1,000 new residents a month," Kim said. "The city is transforming pretty dramatically." They found a shop in a gentrifying neighborhood with a growing population of Millennials who share the foodie culture of their peers. "They feel that good food comes first," Kim said. "They might buy $30 worth of cheese when they're having trouble paying their rent." "The neighborhood itself is full of young families, but the shop pulls customers from all over the city. Word seems to have spread," Steve added. "The core demographic from the neighborhood is in the 30s, who are the adventurous folks, plus the older people who have been fortunate enough to travel overseas." Cheese + Provisions' offering focuses on high-quality American cheeses and salumi as well as a careful selection of accompaniments, with emphasis on locally produced products. Steve works in the shop with one full-time employee, while Kim keeps her day job, helps in the shop on weekends and evenings when special occasions are scheduled and does the shop's marketing and newsletters. Steve does the cheese and salumi buying, working directly with a number of American artisan cheesemakers. Kim focuses on buying the dry goods. "I really like interacting with the dry goods producers," she said. "Once we started digging into the Colorado products, we realized that we have an abundance of good food producers here in the state." Part of the shop's model is that customers can trust Steve's experience as a chef to guide them in selecting their cheese. "We focus on American artisan cheese. We also focus on telling the stories behind these cheeses. Being former cheesemakers ourselves, we understand the difficulty and the passion and dedication it takes. You certainly don't do it for the money," Steve said. "We focus on American artisan rather than European. We want to showcase what America can really do these days. We're competitive with the best of European cheeses. We're not constricted by the DOP restrictions of European cheeses. The philosophy is bringing in interesting cheeses that pique my interest and the interest of the public at large." Customers have responded enthusiastically, allowing Steve to lead them toward bolder choices like washed rind and blue cheeses. "I like them to have a story, and something like a washed bloomy certainly has a story behind it. Rock Hill Creamery in Utah – the woman has six cows, and when she sends a wheel, it comes with a picture of the cow that made the milk," Steve said. "When I find a cheese like that, I pounce on it." "We're bringing cheeses into Colorado that have never been in Colorado before," Kim said. "We're trying to help cheesemakers be successful and to expose those who live in Denver to quality cheeses. It's a passion of ours." Steve & Kim Duty Steve & Kim Duty

• Cover