Issue link: http://osercommunicationsgroup.uberflip.com/i/723657
www.gourmetnews.com 8 Oli e Aceti • Gourmet News Cobram Estate Plants to Shape American Tastes in Olive Oil BY LORRIE BAUMANN After its first year in operation in the United States, Cobram Estate is well on its way to achieving its objective of changing Americans' ideas about olive oil and what it can do for them. "We're absolutely try- ing to introduce Americans to the concept of fresh, more robust oils, which have the double advantage of more flavor and more health benefits," said Rob McGavin, Co- founder and Executive Chairman of Boundary Bend, Cobram Estate's parent company. Cobram Estate started its U.S. opera- tions in Woodland, California, right around the beginning of last year and within months was winning awards at the New York International Olive Oil Compe- tition with four Cobram Estate oils made in the U.S. – two silvers and two golds. Trees for future olive supplies were or- dered last spring and will be planted this spring in western Yolo County, with more trees ordered for the upcoming year. The American operation is being headed by fifth-generation California farmer Adam Englehardt, McGavin credits Englehardt for much of the company's success in in- tegrating so quickly into California's agri- cultural community. "He's a great guy and is well-liked by the other farmers," he said. "We're very excited about the enthusiasm with which we've been received." "It's a kind of fellowship of farmers," McGavin continued. "As millers and mar- keters we can offer expertise and quality, but they're also supporting us, as quality olive oil only comes from top-quality fruit." Cobram Estate is depending on its ex- perience in the Australian market to change what Americans look for in their olive oils. Most American olive oils are produced from the Arbequina variety of olives, which produce oil with a mild fla- vor and which are adaptable to being grown on trellises in California orchards where they're planted in densities as high as 600 trees per acre. Cobram Estate prefers to plant its trees in lower densities – about 150 trees per acre – and to allow them to grow taller and bushier, so the Cobram Estate groves will look more like a walnut or almond orchard than like a typical California olive grove, which more nearly resembles a California vineyard. That opens up the possibilities for olive varieties beyond those currently under commercial production in California: 19 different varieties are being planted. No- tably, Cobram Estate will be growing Picual olives, which make an oil with a very fruity flavor as well as Coratina, for a robust oil with a lot of pepperiness and bitterness on the tongue. "We're also planting Hojiblanca and some other ro- bust olives as well," McGavin said. "We're using our Australian experience to tell us what's popular and what works and what has the wonderful antioxidants." McGavin expects these varieties to pro- duce oils that will tantalize American tastes as well as win awards in next year's NYIOOC. "We've got some really nice oils," he said, adding that he believes that Americans will appreciate them for the health benefits that nutrition research has identified with extra virgin olive oils as well as for their flavors. "The health bene- fits are in the minor components, which are what give the oils their aroma and fla- vor, and we expect that having a wider va- riety of flavors will be popular," he said. "The oils with high levels of antioxidants also have materially better shelf life. They stand up better to cooking because the lev- els of antioxidants protect the oils." "Published studies show that no other food comes close to extra virgin olive oil for the prevention and treatment of chronic disease, said Mary Flynn, Senior Research Dietitian and Associate Professor of Medicine, Clinical at The Miriam Hos- pital and Brown University. "Consumption of extra virgin olive oil has been related to decreasing the risk of heart disease, type 2 diabetes, lipid disorders, cancer, in gen- eral, and cancer of the breast, colon, GI, skin, prostate (and maybe more); osteo- porosis; and Alzheimer's disease (as well as other cognitive function issues)." It's not just the mono-unsaturated fat content in olive oils that are responsible for the health benefits; it's something to do with the higher phenol content in some oils, she added. Laboratory analysis of Co- bram Estate oils has demonstrated that the company is producing oils with consis- tently high phenol levels, she noted. "We're just as passionate about the health as about the flavor, but they go hand in hand," McGavin said. "An oil that may win a show may be the healthiest oil. Healthiest food on Earth." GN Bariani Olive Oil: A Taste of California BY LORRIE BAUMANN Bariani Olive Oil puts California on the table. The company, founded in 1990, of- fers California Balsamic Vinegar, Extra Vir- gin Olive Oil, Raw Honey, White Truffle-infused Extra Virgin Olive Oil and a small line of body care products. The family originally came to the U.S for university studies in Sacramento, Califor- nia, then decided to stay and became citi- zens, said Emanuele Bariani. They founded a company in Sacramento and then found a piece of land in Zamora, California, that had 120-year-old olive trees growing on it. They started picking the olives and press- ing them for oil that they gave to their friends, and after a while, they decided that they'd just make a business of it, Bariani said. A plug from Martha Stewart in 1999 helped the business take off, and the product line grew. "We have our own bee hives that pro- duce the honey," Bariani said. "The only thing we import are the truffles. Domestic truffles are available from Oregon, but they're not as fragrant as the Italian ones." The company distributes its products throughout the U.S. and will ship directly to consumers in areas where retailers are not available. For more information, visit www.barianioliveoil.com. GN