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GOURMET NEWS MAY 2016 www.gourmetnews.com Naturally Healthy NATURALLY HEALTHY 1 6 The cacao plant has been considered a healing and boosting supplement for thou- sands of years, thought to aid in liver func- tion and feelings of well-being. Researchers now are calling cocoa a nutraceutical, a food that contains physiologically active compounds that promote health, might prevent disease and goes beyond nutrition to aid in cognitive and aerobic activities. The stimulants caffeine and theobromine account for the waking boost, while phenylethylamine has a similar effect to oxytocin, the love chemical, and lifts mood. Cocoa also contains anandamide, a cannabinoid naturally produced in the human body that opens up synapses in the brain to allow for more neural activity and feelings of bliss. Combined, these chemi- cals ramp up serotonin and endorphin pro- duction in the brain, with effects similar to a "runner's high." Chocolate also provides the building blocks for these feel-good neurotransmit- ters, and a mix of fats. Magnesium, iron, calcium potassium, sodium — and vita- mins A, B, C, D and E — are all present and accounted for in quality cocoa. And while the 2015 Dietary Guidelines for Americans suggests everyone ought to keep saturated fats limited to 10 percent of daily intake, a little chocolate might help. Not all of the fats in cocoa are associated with raised cholesterol and heart disease. Marilynn Schnepf, Emeritus Professor of Nutrition and Health Sciences at the Uni- versity of Nebraska, Lincoln, said only about a third of those fats in are associated with heart disease, and that limited intake can help combat negative effects. "Turn the package over and look at the label," she said. "The first ingredient in chocolate is sugar, so be aware of that. Many products which you think are good chocolate have different fats in them. Sometimes it won't be cocoa butter, but coconut oil or hydro- genated oil. My advice would be to enjoy very high quality chocolate, so you don't have to eat very much of it to really enjoy it." She then explained that chocolate with the highest cocoa powder content that has- n't been Dutch processed is best, since Dutch processing destroys antioxidant properties of chocolate. The more bitter, the better. "The bitterness of chocolate comes from the flavonoids, the antioxi- dants," she said. To reap the benefits of the cacao plant to the fullest extent, consumers have to seek out minimally-processed, high-cocoa products. Gourmet chocolate producers have no shortage of such products, offering a little something for every need. At Rainbow Gro- cery in San Francisco, shoppers can select from a variety of ultra-dark chocolate bars, with some brands offering a full 100 per- cent cocoa bar. "People who shop for health reasons seek more than 65 percent cocoa," said Kristen Connelly, Grocery Buyer for Rainbow Grocery. "It's extremely bitter, but people have developed a palate for extremely dark chocolate." She also mentioned that a lot of brands will use a blend of cocoa sourced from multiple re- gions. Other specialty chocolate companies source their cocoa from single regions, such as Chocolate Santander, showcasing the individual flavors from each country and crop like "third wave" specialty coffee. "We see a lot more single origins than blends," Connelly said. "People want to taste the nuances of the product. They want to taste the difference between a Madagascar chocolate bar and an Ecuado- rian bar. These might even taste different year to year, based on the crop. Now, the producers try to bring out the flavor of the bean." On top of that, functional food lovers are trying to get more bang for their bar, with added ingredients for more nutri- tional benefit. "I'm seeing more interest in functional chocolate, with antioxidants added or kava added, or superfruits," said Connelly. "Five or six years ago, the re- sponse to that [from consumers] was no." She described these new developments in chocolate as "double duty." The additives and antioxidants are something these con- sumers are already eating daily. "It's almost as regimented as taking vitamins," she said. "If you're going to take turmeric and ash- wanganda every day and can fit a square of chocolate in, why not?" Increased global demand and even a re- cent chocolate shortage have driven prices up, but the market has expanded regard- less. The rise of the middle class outside of the U.S., such as those in China and India, have introduced 1 billion potential new consumers to the chocolate market. Jesse Last, Cocoa Sourcing Manager at Taza Chocolate, says the rising price will balance out sooner rather than later, as the poten- tial profit for farmers — who he said are among the poorest in the world — goes up as a result of the increase. "It's going to in- centivize people to plant more cacao trees and satisfy demand," he said. "There's al- ways going to be a little lag. Prices are going to go up, and usually when you plant a cacao tree it takes two years to start pro- ducing pods." He also said chocolate gets undervalued in the market, often called an affordable luxury, "relative to things like a fine wine or quality coffee, or artisan beer." In addition to health and indulgence, consumers are also willing to pay more for a bar that was ethically and sustainably produced, since it gives them a voice in an industry notorious for bad farming practice and child labor. "When you support a chocolate maker engaged in ethical trading practices, it's a way for consumers to vote with their wallets," said Last. Connelly added: "When you think about the idea of child slaves, a dollar more is not that much!" The industry seeks to improve condi- tions, too, but some observers are skeptical. Corporate initiatives like Cocoa Action, Cocoa Horizons Foundation and Cocoa Life have poured hundreds of millions of dollars into increasing cocoa yields and sustainability through farmer education from the Ivory Coast to Brazil. However, Managing Director of Hardman Agribusi- ness Co. Dou g Hawkins wrote in his De- struction By Chocolate report that these efforts aren't quite up to par. GN Specialty Chocolate Continued from PAGE 1 Plant-Based Protein Products Projected to Continue Market Growth BY GREG GONZALES Ask vegans where they get their protein these days, and eyes are sure to roll. Consumers, especially millennials, are adding more plant-based proteins to their diet than ever before. Their reasons vary, but tend to in- clude health, sustainability and ethical con- cerns. "At the current trends of food consumption and environmental changes, food security and food sustainability are on a collision course," says a 2014 American So- ciety for Nutrition study. "Policies in favor of the global adoption of plant-based diets will simultaneously optimize the food supply, health, environmental and social justice out- comes for the world's population." Whatever their reasons for incorporating more plant- based protein into their diets, plant-based al- ternatives are one of the biggest trends this year. According to Mintel's 2016 Global Food and Drink Trends report, the increase in novel protein sources appeals to a wider va- riety of consumers, and indicates that the "alternative" marketplace might take over the mainstream animal-based market. As early as 2013, Mintel reported that more than one-third of U.S. consumers had pur- chased a meat alternative such as Tofurky or Beyond Meat. Seventy percent of Millennials consume meat alternatives a few times a week, with one-third of them consuming a meat alternative daily. Some of them are switching to plant-based diets, or not eating as much meat, as a health choice. Recent research from the World Health Organization and other institutions have linked processed meat and red meat consumption to colon cancer, and other forms of cancer. Meat is also rich in saturated fats and sodium, which is bad for heart health when it dominates the diet. According to a Harvard study, replacing these fat-rich meats with foods rich in polyunsaturated fats, like nuts or seeds, reduced heart disease risk by 19 percent. Another study, from Im- perial College London, showed that reduced meat consumption also helps prevent obesity in the long term. In addition, a look at the nutrition facts on meat versus peas or beans shows that the latter can provide more fiber, protein, vitamins and minerals without the extra fat the former adds. Reducing meat in- take and substituting vegetables provides all the daily dietary requirements. Consumers have also reduced their meat intake in the name of animal welfare and en- vironment. For example, more than 8 billion chickens were slaughtered for meat in 2014, most of them living in cages too small to move around in. Some argue that this kind of pain and suffering of the animals is enough for them to make the switch, though consumers might also point to environmen- tal factors as well. Chef and Restauranteur Dan Barber writes in his book, "The Third Plate," that "Fixtures of agribusiness such as five-thousand-acre grain monocultures and bloated animal feedlots are no more the fu- ture of farming than eighteenth-century fac- tories billowing black smoke are the future of manufacturing." Barber argues in inter- views, books and Ted Talks that agriculture, cooking and nature go hand-in-hand, that foods produced along with the local ecosys- tem are sustainable and even taste better. Reasons for eating more plants and less meat aside, available alternatives to animal proteins run the gamut of protein sources. Quorn's patties and strips get their protein from a fungus to mimic the taste and texture of chicken, while Gardein's formulation for chicken, fish and burgers do the same using vital wheat gluten. Beyond Meat's products use a variety of sources, including pea pro- tein, to mimic meats like chicken and beef. Vegans can still enjoy their morning eggs with Follow Your Heart's VeganEgg, a com- pletely vegan egg product made from algae that cooks up in a pan just like the real thing. Bean burgers, mushrooms, jackfruit, tempeh, tofu, seitan and texturized vegetable protein are just some of the other ways consumers are pushing meat proteins further off their plates. From Paleo to vegan and gluten-free, there's something for every individual. "People need the information so they can make their choice, even in the space of non- meat proteins," said Minh Tsai, Founder and CEO of Hodo Soy. "Even now, there's a lot of choices. With information, both in terms of what it tastes like and what the ingredients are, customers will have that info and make the right choice when it comes to taste, and when it comes to health." GN

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