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Re s ta u ra n t D a i l y N e ws 4 3 Tu e s d a y, M a y 2 0 , 2 0 1 4 ECONOMIC WELL-BEING PROPELS INTEREST IN SPICY INTERNATIONAL FLAVORS By Lorrie Baumann As the world's economy emerges from economic recession, American foodies are ready to launch out from the safe har- bor of Italian-American and traditional American comfort food and into deeper culinary waters, and all the indications are that this is going to be a spicy voyage. Demand for exotic seasonings and spices in this country is increasing due to the increasing demand for new flavors and flavor ingredients, the growing populari- ty of ethnic cuisines and increasing health awareness among consumers. This is according to a 2013 report from market intelligence company Transparency Market Research. The growing popularity of interna- tionally sourced seasonings and spices in this country is at least in part a prod- uct of the larger economic phenomenon of globalization. The Food and Agriculture Organization of the United Nations released a report in 2011 on growing opportunities for small farmers in developing nations to participate in the global spice trade. India is one of the world's largest manufacturers and exporters of seasonings and spices, and growth in the Asia-Pacific spice trade is riding on the developing spice markets in India, China, Vietnam, Indonesia and Sri Lanka, historically each a net exporter of spices. "What's really changed in the spice business in the past couple of years— 'Spice 2.0'—is that 300 million Indians and 400 million Chinese have entered the middle class and want to eat the food of their cultures. American spice prices have gone through the roof, as the Chinese and Indians buy more spice," said Tim Ziegler, Spice Master for Italco Food Products, Inc. a special- ty food distributor in Colorado. Along with Brian Keating, Ziegler co- authored "Spices and Culinary Herbs," a poster presentation designed to aid chefs in creating flavors by pairing spices and herbs from the same culi- nary family. "India is now a net black pepper importer. It is the most stagger- ing development in the spice business in the past 25 years," said Ziegler Spices are defined as vegetable products used for flavoring, seasoning and importing aroma in foods. Herbs are leafy spices. Some plants, such as dill and coriander, provide both spice seeds and leafy herbs. Around 50 spice and herb plants are of global trade impor- tance, but many other spices and herbs are used in local traditional cooking. There is also an overlap between spices and herbs and vegetables. Some mush- rooms, for example, are used as spices in China and Pakistan. Most herbs and spices are endemic to a particular geographic area. Paprika, for example, is widely grown by small- scale farmers in Africa, while chilies are widely grown in Central America, Asia and Africa. Cloves are grown in low- lying tropical areas, including Indonesia, Madagascar and Zanzibar. Pepper, the world's most important spice crop, is grown in areas of South America, Africa and India, as well as in some Pacific Ocean countries that have high rainfall and low elevation. Lemongrass, an important herb, is grown widely in the tropics. International trade in spices is domi- nated by dried products. However, in recent years, fresh herbs have become more popular, as well as spice- and herb- derived essential oils and oleoresins. In addition, the growing interest in organic food and beverages is also affecting the world of seasonings and spices, as, according to Transparency Market Research, large amounts of certified organic spices have been introduced to the market over the past few years. The international spice trend is already having a noticeable effect on home and restaurant kitchens across the United States. "If the melting pot is true anywhere in America, it's true in the kitchen," Ziegler said. "American cui- sine is not roast beef and mashed pota- toes and asparagus spears anymore." Ziegler says that Americans are grow- ing more interested in the flavor pro- files that originated in Middle Eastern and southwest Asian cuisines. "I'm a history major, and I'm a chef. I sell spices on a daily basis, and … the flavor profiles that even the young chefs are asking me for are increasingly south- west Asian," Ziegler said. "I believe that 3 and a half million to 5 and a half mil- lion Americans have traveled or lived extensively in Afghanistan, Iraq, Bahrein and the Middle East, and those flavor profiles have come back to the United States. And I think that's going to be a bur- geoning trend." New Dehli-born Chef Suvir Saran, Executive Chef at Devi in New York City and Chairman of Asian Culinary Studies for the Culinary Institute of America, says that he sees Americans' growing interest in spices as an indica- tion that this country's residents are becoming more mindful about how they cook and eat. "My feeling is that we've been a nation that's reactionary and loves fads and diets and trends. With the eco- nomic recession ending, people have become less reactionary, and they're becoming more mindful," he said. "Taking Mediterranean or whatever com- fort food we were already doing and adding more herbs and flavors and spices will be a way that we can cook and eat more mindfully and also save money in the end." "Spices and flavoring ingredients are cheap. They're wallet-friendly and last a lifetime," Saran added. "They give you great joy and great flavor without spend- ing too much … As there is more avail- ability for aromatics and spices, we can incorporate these into what we already know and create more breadth and depth in our repertoire." Staffan Terje, Chef and owner of Perbacco restaurant in San Francisco, agrees with Saran. "I don't think food ever gets boring. I never think flavors go out of style. I think that people find new things and discover new things for them- selves, whether they're eating or cook- ing. But I never think that basil and toma- to is going to be boring," he said. "Chefs are exploring other spices and herbs and flavors that might not be familiar to peo- ple. Spices had a place that's been pretty constant for a long time in different foods, but I see that people are exploring things in the spice realm itself. It's not so much about the heat of spiciness, but about different flavor combinations. You'll see things like cloves and allspice sneaking their way in." "I look at how I flavor my own dishes, cooking northern Italian food, and I look at history. Italians were part of the early spice market and adapted things that came from the East and from the New World," Terje con- tinued. "You start look- ing at old European recipes, and you'll find some very interesting things—the use of cin- namon, the use of gin- ger—things that came from the Middle East. It's not just about chili peppers." Chef Hosea Rosenberg, owner of Blackbelly Catering in Boulder, Colo. and winner of the fifth season of "Top Chef," says he is hearing a lot from his fellow chefs about their interest in the cuisines of Morocco and Latin America. "Everyone's familiar with Americanized Mexican, but there are so many regional cuisines in Mexico that have not been highlighted, such as Oaxacan," he said. "I see a few chefs that are starting to get a lot more press attention that are either from Morocco or have Moroccan her- itage. It's an amazing cuisine, and I don't think there's enough attention to it as of yet." Rosenberg is exploring both of these cuisines in his own cooking, espe- cially the characteristic Moroccan tagines. "I just love the slow cooking, especially in the wintertime, slow brais- es of meat. I have a farm, and we raise our own lamb, and I'm always looking for creative ways to cook and serve lamb," he said. "This type of cuisine really lends itself into turning a cheaper cut, if you will, into a remarkable cen- terpiece-type dish." "Now that it's so easy to access all these spices, I see people really taking regional American cuisine and applying global spices to them as well to enhance those dishes," said Chef Matt Greco, Executive Chef at The Restaurant at Wente Vineyards in California. "People are using spices that, not long ago, no one had ever heard of." "You're definitely seeing a lot of that cross between American, especially southern American, with Asian flavors," Greco continued. "I definitely see a lot more fermented products. Korea uses so many fermented products in their food. I definitely see those types of influences applied to American cuisine." TASTE UNLIMITED OPENS NEW BAYVILLE FARMS STORE AND CAFÉ IN VIRGINIA BEACH Virginia gourmet food company TASTE Unlimited recently completed construction of a new building for its Bayville Farms store and café at the corner of Shore Drive and First Court Road in Virginia Beach. The company has operated a location there since 1983 in an older building. This past summer the company began construc- tion on a new building to replace the smaller, outdated structure, which has since been demolished. The space features exposed rafters, two contemporary, two-story window walls and wood and steel design elements throughout. A mezzanine area seats 50 guests and features a communal table and additional dining tables made of wood that dates back prior to the American Revolution. Two rotating art galleries, initially featuring local artists Jeanne Goodman and Mandy Copley Wade, grace the walls. In addition, new space for an improved fresh produce stand will open next spring. The iconic picnic tables on the lawn remain, and new exterior patio seating has been added. New store offerings include hand- scooped gelato, wines by the glass, draft beer and growlers, fountain drinks, cof- fee, hot tea and a refill station for TASTE Greek Extra Virgin Olive Oil. For sum- mer, customers will be able to enjoy a walk-up gelato window on the outside of the building. Since the company's founding as a single wine and cheese shop in 1973, TASTE has grown to six family-owned locations in the Hampton Roads region. A popular destination for visitors and a locals' favorite year-round, TASTE offers gourmet foods, an upscale café menu, business lunches, and catering for both large and small events. The company also ships distinctive food gifts throughout the United States, with ordering online or through store loca- tions. TASTE hosts events all year long to celebrate food and wine through cooking classes, wine and food pairing classes and more. For more information, or to shop online, visit www.tasteunlimited.com.